"It's better to be a flamboyant failure than a benign success"

 

Top to bottom -  Westwood and McLaren, SEX Kings Road shop, God Save the Queen #1 in 1977, McLaren fifth from left with Sex Pistols 1976. 

Malcolm McLaren lived by motto "It's better to be a flamboyant failure than a benign success". I first read about him in Vivienne Westwood's biography, and like Westwood, I have been fascinated by him ever since. The two of them started the 'SEX' shop on The Kings Road in London and dressed the Sex Pistols in bondage gear which would go on to shape British punk culture. Johnny Rotten is credited in being the first British punk to rip his shirt, and Sex Pistols bassist Sid Viscous as the first to use safety pins. Details about McLaren's career in music are detailed by the BBC here. 

McLaren passed away last week at the age of 64. I'm looking forward to reading more about his life and legacies and watch his family continue to influence popular culture. McLaren and Westwood's son, Joe Corre, co-founded Agent Provocateur and has recently moved into menswear with a 'Child of the Jago' in Shoreditch, London. I visited the store before I left London and it definitely has a mysterious, unconventional vibe. It hasn't become hugely successful yet, but I'm sure it will take off sooner than later. The family has a knack for trend spotting, creating unconventional businesses with cult followings, and turning them into a commercial success. And they always seem to achieve it in a mischievous, flamboyant manner.  

Playing Horse

This is Maiga riding Marina. I've had a restrained love for horses ever since I was little. In my key-and-lock diary from when I was little I wrote a "what I want to be when I'm older" list. It reads - photographer, fashion designer or horse back riding instructor. I think the 'instructor' part was me trying to be practical. So a job playing with horses was naturally an instructor.

I rode for a while when I was young but broke my arm falling off and never really got back into it. Over the years I've made feeble attempts of riding again with the odd lesson or trail ride here and there. But mostly I fantasize about riding horses through the outback and almost drive off the road every time I drive past horses in a field. But that's it.

So I jumped at the opportunity when Maiga invited me along to hang out with her and Marina. Or actually maybe I invited myself. Anyways, she was sweet enough to let me tag along on her morning ride.  I had no idea there were stables right in Vancouver! But there are a whole bunch of barns and a large riding community right off SW Marine Drive!

It was so fun just being there. The smell of hay, horse and leather...the mud and cold air....and all  passionate riders at the stables. I took a picture of Marina's saddle. It's just so gorgeous with the worn layers of stained leather. Oh and the boots. Real riding boots. I want some to ride in...and to wear everyday. Stylish and practical? Yes. Hygienic. No.

I'm going to try to fit in some lessons in in the near future! I can't wait to play horse some more. Thank you Maiga!

Alexander McQueen, Paris, March 9

Lee Alexander McQueen's last collection was 80 percent done before he left us. The 16 piece collection bridged haute couture and art, and unlike his last show was presented to small group of editors - putting the focus back on the fine craftsmanship. His exquisite tailoring from his training at a Savile Row is equally as apparent in his collections as his unparalleled extravagance.  I love how this silk dress flows from surreal structure to sheer elegant drape. Apparently the McQueen fashion label will continue, but it certainly wont be the same.

Making Polar Bears Sexy

Luxury brands making a huge show of Global Warming. Hypocritical? I think so.

Last season Chanel launched an eco collection in a farm setting, and this season transported 240 tonnes of ice from northern Sweden to central Paris to create a melting iceberg runway. Drawing attention to global warming? Yes. Making a change for the better? I don't think so.

I'd like to think that this also means a large portion of sales from Chanel perfumes next year are going towards saving the polar bears. But somehow I'm doubtful. If I'm wrong, please someone correct me.

At a first glance the excessive amount of fur is astonishing. In fact, the fur is what Karl calls 'fantasy fur' - the highest quality of faux fur developed for the collection. And that' s nice - not killing more endangered animals. But, will the little girls and ladies-who-lunch know they're fake when they see the fashion shoots in magazines? Will it be publicly advertised to death so that the masses trying to recreate the Chanel look next fall will also use fake or vintage fur?

I love the fantasy of fashion, and I'm okay with some extravagance in the name of art and self-expression. But with all the resources, talented designers and artists in the palm of Chanel's hand, they could make a real splash with global warming issues if they wanted to. It would be challenging to create fewer collections with higher production standards and still make money in the cut-throat industry. And hard to attract the same clientele with less extravagance and more long-lasting considered design. Or to send the message that being fashionable isn't about frivolous over-consumption. But I think they could, if they wanted to.

I liked Alexander McQueen's post-apocalyptic underwater collection last year. It was exciting, creative and more art than fashion. Also being streamed live made is accessible rather than elitist. But this season's Chanel show, with models getting their heels wet in melting icebergs, is what I hate about fashion. Top photos via Cafe Mode, bottom Style.com.

Menswear Fall 2011 fashion research

Inspiration for fabrics, colours, finishes and silhouettes for the 'Bleisure' man. The business and leisure hybrids are for today's relaxed workplace, and active men making the most of city living.

The picture of the guy eating with the hat and sunnies is from the Rapha website. Rapha is this great cycling fashion brand from London who is doing it right. www.rapha.cc

Fashion for the urban man expressing his competitive and playful energy outside and in the office.

 My messy living room still looks like this.

The café in Paris

I went to Le Café, in Paris with Alison (with one 'l'). I love the globe lights. They flickered on and off, which sounds irritating but it wasn't at all. Then the little cherubs floating, African masks on the walls, glowing fish tanks, and the standard great red wine. The atmosphere was so warm and cozy (from all the random sources of light and candles) and the food was made with love. And to top it off there were some dead sexy French men there. What a great spot.

Although the big server guy was not impressed with our bad French. It was the one time trying to make sense speaking broken French and smiling just wasn't enough. He had the “you are an American tourist, and not French or chic enough to be here” attitude. Paris has to play hard to get every now and again, I suppose, to keep it’s mystery. So Le Café - not the-one-and-only café - but The Café, will keep me wanting more of Paris, especially because it is just beyond my reach.

Paris Menswear Snaps

Half the excitement of fashion week is the people watching. I really need to get a more professional camera if I want to do street shots. Hopefully next time.

So here are a few stealth shots.  I couldn't resist taking one of Kanye and his crew. And look how tall that one camera guy is behind them. And I love the postures of the people in this front row shot. Texting, taking photos, smiling across the runway. I did ask this guy at Walter van Beirdonck show. Funny the "Urban Trekkers" outdoorsy trend on fashionistas in the middle of the city.  But it's a trend that will come naturally to Canadians!

And nothing says menswear like a traditional French atelier. This one is in Le Marais along with many great galleries and studios to peak into.

Kris Van Assche A/W 2010